--------11/10/11--------Time's up Mister--------

My eyes open with crusty frames and I think to myself, in exactly 5 years to the day my first/original passport will expire. To date (that is, since exactly 5 years ago) I have just 16 different stamps that represent 16 different countries and their soil that my feet, and sometimes much more, have fallen upon--I'm gr8ful this morning...and full of hope for all that aw8s me. Then my mind does its hooplas and initiates its introspection...you know like, "do rhetorical questions have question marks when in written form", "why do we wish upon a flashing arc in the dark sky that happened millions of years ago and feel it important--isn't hindsight 20/20?", and "what, in the simplest sense, is it that life--ie. pain, love, loss, desire, etc.--provokes in humanity?" The last one had me off into the unknown like Sputnik.

Day-2-Day wIndo Display:

Yesterday I saw a guy on a moped that got flipped into the middle of a chaotic Indonesian street (pardon the redundancy), popped up completely aware of the ominous automobiles that might run right over him, and he jumped back on...with a kick he slowly accelerated giving the other motor a look of "idiot". I looked down to my feet in disbelief at the avoidance of non-necessities, then I quickly looked up again to see if he was able to drive the mangled motor. Instead, I saw a policeman on a motorbike himself speeding from behind my bemo and actually run a red light to act on his own avoidance agenda...he had a smile.

Then I saw 2 boys standing on a piece of cement; they were jumping up and down with a contageous countenance of smiles. They were butt-naked, willies floppin', and full of free life--brothers in bums.

Every day I walk out of my "hostel" to a line of becak (bay-chak) with one in particular who always beckons me with a sharp stabbing motion of his hand. Every single day it's the same thing, "massajee, darling, make feel nice"...and every day I crack up at this dirty face with probably a dirtier imagination. Then I return in the nighttime and we repeat our interaction.

I had a girl walk by me last night and "pet" my arm like I was an animal, but she said, "ooooh" like it was soft and fluffy or something. She walked 5 steps then said, "Mister...photo?!?" Switch roles and whattaya have??? Soft porn.

Currently: I'm not sure if the 2 of you who read this, picture me going from city to river to mountain to random corner to beneath a bush where no one would venture every single day without rest...I don't know if you picture anything at all (except me naked on the banks, with a fishing rod and one HELL of a fish, of course), but I will disclose a very important detail that allows one to venture valiantly for long periods of time. As any traveler who likes to consume the clock with stations and docks, there comes a time for Rn'R (recluse and recharge). This is what I've demanded of myself; after all the biggest reason travelers get Malaria and other "illnesses" is because they run their bodies down to the point where the body says, "pull-up bitch...NOW" and thus you are holed up where you don't want to be...so I've decided to stop somewhere that's pleasant enough.

Makassar is Majority Muslim...why I chose here...dunno...cuz it's not the "back-to-western" comfort that would've been ideal. It is however, "on-the-way" and is the biggest city on the enormous island of Sulawesi. Check it out on a map...a bigger map...you'll see that Sulawesi looks like it was gripped by half a dozen muscle-men (or 2B fair--wrestling-women) who each pulled in his/her separate direction...it goes everywhere man! For this very reason, it's extremely difficult to reach certain areas unless by air or sea (latter taking way too long). Sulawesi Plan: Trek, Beach-Bum, Snorkel, Trek, Dive, Out. Actually, I'm not sure my boots can handle that much more hikin' about, but there's no place here that has any size above 43...uhh, like 9.5-10US...again...see the fishin' rod...yeah, 10 is too small...ahh, I'm all talk.

Back to Muslim Makassar...for those who DON'T know, ramadan is in full swing--that is the fasting period (one month) for all muslims which this year is 25 Oct--24 Nov. How does this affect me? For one, almost all restaurants are closed until the sun starts to set...all except those "western" establishments that I've stopped cursing and started loving again; however, even those refuse to set up their patio-dining. I heard of one incident (not sure if it was Java or Sulawesi) where a man was fined because he was eating on the street in mid-day. The street-stall was also fined for selling him the food. Neither of those charged was Muslim. Second, no--and I mean absolutely NO--alcohol will be sold during this month. Last night I wanted a beer so bad...yeah, poor me can't have a bloody beer, so what...and though I went into every "bar" that had a beer sign hanging above it's door, I was refused every time. Majority does in fact RULE!!! I mean I couldn't even count on the trusty, common chinese to conspire with me in their ever-present eagerness to assist in the absence of alcohol; that admirable, entrepreneurial outlook didn't aide me that night. In every instance I've witnessed, I felt the chinese couldn't give 2 chop-sticks less what religious "holiday" was going on; "if it brings me coin, you can have my loins". But, "no pain no gain" and with what could come to blows--or worse bombs--I wasn't about to make a stink about not getting a beer so I walked back to my room and read over a coffee I brewed myself.

It was interesting to see a section of the story on the shore of Sulawesi though; many people showed up to the restaurant I was eating at around 5:30pm and ordered their food/drink. The servers would bring them whatever they ordered and the entire table would wait. I looked around as I reached for my soup-spoon with a piece of fried squid hanging from my mouth and the "cocktail sauce" dribble on my chin--for I had a bit of a fasting myself that day and was famished--to see the whole terrace and the deck below with tables covered in plates of food, glasses of choco-shake/tea, bowls of soup...the whole lot...just waiting to be enjoyed. I won't say I felt guilty eating, but it wasn't the most comfortable feeling I've had. Then at exactly 6pm, as if a gun had been fired, people picked up their forks/spoons (yes, here they use utensils) and began their feast. So this is where I'll be for the second half of their religious period and I think it will be much more imposing than anything was on Flores, which is primarily Catholic. I went to Carrefour (holy Shiite Muslim they have one here) and saw that there was a curtain pulled over all the liquor. I thought it was for an age limit reason, but now things are falling into perspective...a very sobering perspective. But I was the one who CHOSE to get ANOTHER 2 month visa to CONTINUE traveling in the MOST POPULOUS MUSLIM nation in the world and I do have things that crack me a smile once in awhile.

Comforts I almost forgot: sit-down toilet, potatoes, this very internet, a shower head (even though it's still ice cold water), a thick mattress, a room without termites, ants, or many mosquitoes, decent food, beer (well...signs of beer). Oh there's more but no need 2 bore.

Things that still suck: Every Indo yelling the only phrase in English that they know, Nasi Goreeng, the new name, "Mister", having to tell everyone that I'm of "this" religion or "that" regardless of truth, no English Newspaper, magazine, and the only English books available are written by Agatha Christie (and I don't care if I mispelled that), and having every Indo feel they NEED 2 help you no matter if they stop you in the middle of the road and cause excessive impatience in the myriad drivers behind them.

Indonesian Idiosyncrasies:

ONE: Just as Koreans ask the strange question, "what's your blood type?", Indonesians will (before knowing your name) ask "what religion are you?". They do not except anything other than a definitive answer of a religion that is recognized by the Indo govt. There is no, "well, ya see it's difficult the answer to that question"...oh no...they're not having it. What could be difficult about that str8-4ward question...there are only a handful of answers. "HUH?"

The reason that people don't understand "free-religion" is because the govt. forces all Indonesians to mark one of 5 religions on their residence form: Muslim (obviously), Catholic, Buddhist, Hindu, Protestant. There is no in between and there certainly is no "other" box...you MUST choose one. So, they think EVERYONE "must" choose one...I switch it up for my own entertainment...the reaction is always the same though.

TWO: I could be (as I was yesterday) writing in my journal at a restaurant, and anyone (or everyone) would feel it NOT inappropriate to stop and stand over me while reading this journal...completely normal. Of course, they can't understand what I'm writing cuz I'm writing it in Spanish, but it's the point that first, my bubble's popped, second you're staring, third, your reading a personal account that's PRIVATE!!!

The swiss-german totally hit the nail on the head when she said to me just after being disappointed by our guide that should've taken us to the mountain but instead drank himself stupid--that's a completely different story that should be told...l8r and maybe with a beer of my own around a fire and some of you lovely lot--she said, "ya know the biggest reason I couldn't live here? There is no privacy." A village is built upon itself, house-atop-house, share water, share food, share children, share everything. I truly don't know when they actually have time to procreate. And while this is nice in the aspect that you always have someone to count on to help you out, you also always have someone to count your every move and mistake.

There are 3 and 4 and a thousand more, but again...don't want to let it all out in one posting.

Books: I'm devouring the reading material I have and even managed to read last week's TIME in less than a day...there's no way The Economist would've been so easily absorbed...can't get it. Just started "Kafka On The Shore" Haruki Murakami.

Music: Tragically Hip (various albums) and Notwist "Neon Golden". Bri...all those albums you made me are truly saving me from insanity. Mark...(sheeyut, I know you haven't got this far in reading) but this guy Mark in NYC...he should be king!

In The News: For those who actually read/watch the news; please don't trip about anything you might have read with regard to Philippines. Even though it's the easiest way to enter the country from where I will be, I have made a special effort to avoid the island of Mindanao. The comforting thing for those who care (and 4U mom/dad) is that I pay more attention than most travellers of intended trails. Those who have no idea..."ignorance is bliss".


The next and last month of Indo should be a fantastic final chapter in this maze of miraculous Murr-meanderings. I search for my wallet to pay for the bus ticket I just bought and look up realizing she's spelling my name in IROA (Intl. Radio Operator's Alphabet)..."romeo-romeo-alpha-YANKEE..." Of course, I can't help but smile as I slide the 50,000 note across the soiled countertop. I won't spoil the appeal of what's to come...but the exciting bit is that for ROMEO YANKEE, it IS to come. Here's to the next 5 years!