Zanskar-2-Srinigar...Here U R>>>

After the Rain...

Typical: Mani wall, Chorten, and

mtns that rise str8 up.

So many things have happened...have I said that b4? Well, from eating the world's worst chocolate to ruckin' thru one of the world's greatest mountain ranges U R about 2B spoiled by a few anecdotes of adventure.

I'll start where I left off only cuz these details will be brief..no...REALLY, this time!

I left you last with Nubra Valley, Ladakh, and other regions of Tibetan India where I pretty much bummed out, apart from yoga on the rooftop which prompted my prayer every morning to make it up AND back down that ladder whose rungs were barely hanging on by rusted nails.

I made my way from Leh to the tiny village of Alchi which has a monastery that was painted and used around 9 centuries ago (that would imply one of the world's oldest monasteries), with texts 2 prove it. Then I quickly hitched a ride to the town that holds Ladakh's prodigious archetype gompa (monastery). This was 2B the starting point of a 10 day trek that Julian (a guy I met exactly 1 year ago in Indonesia near East Timor, then again met in the Philippines, then again in Thailand, then again...here) and an Englishman Tom who signed up for the same trek. We planned to do this 10 day trek in just 8 days...and succeeded with ease.


Me, Tom, and Julian after breaky

Briefly (b4 I 4get), the trek was over 120 km and would require our ascent of 8 high-altitude passes, the highest of which was 5050meters (16,665ft.) which was the highest...physically...I've ever been. This doesn't include the heaps and heaps of "hills" that we had to "up & down" over and over again. Overall, the trek was wicked-amazing! I never imagined a place on earth that could display rock strata SO contorted; mammoth, motionless waves, vertical collisions, and entire mtn. ranges that inclined insidiously 2 other more elev8'd ranges that demanded reverence.


Day 1: Tom and Jerry...czech the strata and colours

Our first pass...J makin' his way up after a nature call

Lingshed and the psychedelic rock that hugs it

Dude...nice donkey-face. J&I at wake-up
no blade, no shower, for 11 days...and my
turban didn't block the sun like I'd hoped.

Tom & J...I love the shadow play on that

funky formation behind. Day 3, the day of Wow!

Some down time w/ "dear diary"

Day 6: I luv the dramatic look here, every day was this

Near the end of our trek, the waxing 3/4 moon evinced its brilliant moonlight that made midnight shadows of mountainous narrows. Have you ever witnessed a shadow in the darkness of night? It's creepy and comforting in the same void; U look back at your own "cut-out" on the ground and imagine stepping thru such a vacuous, cool portal. Then U climb back into your tent cuz it's friggin' freezing outside. Day 8 had us walking thru a DUSTY desert and blessed us with a phenomenal vista of the Great Himalayan Range (or foothills of) which we had climbed up, over, and through the entire Zanskar Range to witness. 3 enormous massifs greeted us as we approached the terminating town of our trek, Padum. The jeep ride the next AM was voted "most scenic road trip" 2 date in my journey--Holy Snow-Shift that was a funkdafied road full of hanging glaciers, heaven-scraping peaks with gloves of pure driven white snow, and gorges gouged out by centuries of attrition and river consumption. But then we arrived in Kargil...a rat's toilet of a town describes the layout of the tacit border between Ladakh (primarily Tibetan) and Kashmir (dominantly Muslim) and by chance sits right on the "line of control" between Pakistan and India. Kargil is klearly an Islamic settlement where you see calendars with Mahmoud Ahmadinejad displayed everywhere.

Massif w/ Padum below...end of trek

J and I continued on to the "unstable" state of Kashmir. Maybe you've heard of it? Pakistan says it's theirs; India claims the same; and every Kashmiri says they don't feel they're part of either country. Years of war, blood, displacement, and death 4 the proclamation of what is in reality, "indecision".

Just a month b4 I arrived, I heard of a tourist being shot in the face for having taken a picture of the military in Srinigar. 4 this reason--and bcuz I'm not an IDIOT...all the time--U won't C any photos of the ubiquitous presence of machine gun bunkers, lorries with continents of ammunition, and the barbed wire w/ soldiers somewhere and everywhere around. What's scariest of all, most soldiers hold their automatic weapons like a constable holds a baton; slapping it against their other palm...Power in Plastic-looking AK's, in Perforated checkPoints, in "safety-OFF" trigger mode Positions. These guys R ready 2 roll NOW! But 2B honest, if U can just ignore the "peacekeepers" (or look at them as traffic police), the vibe is very chilled out here in Srinigar.

MayB one thing that allayed any "over-reaction" to the heavy-in your face-state here is the intro at Sonamarg (80km east of Srinigar). After doing a few day hikes up stupidly steep slopes w/ rewarding views of 4 separate glaciers that filled mountain palms 3-4000ft above the village, we would return to the settlement. On one day, I recall counting 20 enormous lorries that had everything from tonnes and tonnes of ammo to guys poking thru the canvas brandishing their automatics at the 2 incredulous Americans (from where they probably bought the blood-spillin' metal) on the side of the road. I remember the testosterone in his head nod, the blinding of the shiny metal on his AK-47 and last, his pearl white teeth showing each and EVERY neighbor in the biggest smile. Many of the trucks had the auto and semi-automatics bolted 2 the frame of the vehicle allowing a "sweep-and-spray shoot" if necessary while others housed groups of 25+ men hanging out the back, each with his own toy of metal masculinity sloppily slappin' around. This surely gave me a sample of what was 2 come...then when it did come in Srinigar, the capital of Kashmir, it seemed rather restrained in comparison.

Sonamarg from way up high--no guns up here!

We splashed out on a houseboat, which is what ya do when you come 2 Srinigar. I'm payin' WELL over my "budget" and I feel it all the more cuz my trip is ending...well, after my lengthy roadtrip, the 3-4 months that remain seem like the phinal phase. But the dough that's thrown is pullin' some serious luxury...4 me.

Part of the enjoyment that I feel on the boat (and there R several symbolic sighs of it every hour) comes from something accumulated. What's that? It's the 19 months of budget travel. And what's that mean? It could be represented by any number of things; dust barreling into an overcrowded bus where people R smoking. Where swine or soon-2B deceaced chickens decorate my clothing. OR being one of the 12 people 2B "lucky enuf" 2 make it into the max 6 passenger jeep to go as many hours. As 4 the budget accomodation: (many times spartan/rustic/minimal) with mostly cold water poured over my body in a lil' scoop & bucket system was fun 4 the first year (actually, I still like it). 90% of the time, this system is in a communal or shared bathroom/toilet which might not pass a sanitary evaluations check...anywhere. Often bed bugs (tho' I've been luckier than most), almost always dusty, muggy, or the lingering of some other unclassifiable agent whose effect is felt the morning after. Then there's the climbing of several floors in stifling heat thru super-skinny corridors w/ my 2 NOT super-skinny backpacks that cling to my sweat-soaked back to reach the aforementioned paradise...or 2 refuse it and go to the next which might sacrifice a grimy bathroom for a cell-like bedroom. Combine this w/ hard trekking the last 2+ weeks, general Indian chaos and just plain grinding it for over a year and a half. Throw all that into a big fat burrito (mmm, burrito) and you might C that it makes for a good preamble to R&R on a houseboat where I can feel an ambiance of "home" like nothing else in my SE Asian Adventure...bienvenido a Kashmir.

Kashmir does have a reputation...actually, it's the Kashmiri people that have cultivated this rep. After being here just 15 seconds I experienced the "reality" of this Kashmiri KaraKteristiK; Kapitalism in the biggest sense. They'll sell you anything and EVERYTHING! On our lovely houseboat we often get some guy in a shikara (local sleek boat that slides thru the lake from hsbt 2 hsbt) shouting out his wares 4 sale. W8...this is where the story of the...

So try to put it 2gether: take your grandmother's or mom's worst perfume (remember that HORRIBLE scent that lingered 2 long after she left 4 sorority night)...yeah, take THAT scent and mix it with a synthetic sugar that barely passed the IFDA's (Indian Food & Drug Adm) standard, throw some nuts in 2 symbolize the fools that buy it. If you can manage this, you'd have the world's worst chocolate...then you'd probably also have a "gift" 2 the servants that help on the boat as we did. Nasty nasty NASTY!!!

As 4 Srinigar, Kashmir...I got used 2 the black zombies walking everywhere. That would be the burkha (spelled in so many ways) dressed women. It's kinda strange talking to someone thru interlaced eye-holes; ya don't know if it's the wizard workin' ways again or an actual person. Srinigar definately had its peccadillos; the barrelling of barbed wire in the most serene places...like Shalimar Garden...and ooohhh, the gardens, military, midnight moaning from the mosque, (almost 4gotten) mosquitoes in the houseboat...but really, it was such a home 4 me @ that time. What's home? At this point, it was where I bought premium chocolate cookies and dunked them in cold milk. Where breaky was coffee w/ milk followed by cereal w/ the same frosty white liquid. Where I was reacquainted w/ hot-water showers...like from an actual shower head! Where I rediscovered the joy of just standing under the hot heaven in relish. Renting movies, having a desk 2 write at, pickin' the guitar at sunset. Knowing the neighbors...walking around w/ locals calling out "hello" (and not in the annoying way) and knowing my "rounds"...it's me knowing they had a bit of affection 4 my wayward soul. CARPET!!! The last time I walked on carpet was New Zealand Jan. 2006. Oh yes...home was walking on carpet with it kissing in between my toes, It was lying on carpet...snuggling up 2 it, then lying on my back, looking up at the fan that kept me kool, kept me komfy. Just walking down that hallway 2 my bedroom..."retiring" 4 the night. All this provided me w/ a solace in Srinigar I hadn't expected...and thoroughly needed.


Woman in Burkha on streets of Srinigar

Shalimar Bagh (Garden)

Indian Signs Along the Way:

"Henna Beauty Parlor and Full Body Mashag"--the very conservative, muslim town of Padum.

"Stop: Weak Bridge. One Vehicle at a Time"--near Sonamarg.

"Oh God Help Me" and "Oh God Save Us"--on 80% of all heavy-load carriers.


And this one, which makes you question how thirsty U really R...



Reads: "The Life of Pi" by Yann Martel, a tale of a boy who gets stuck on a lifeboat with a Bengal Tiger and has 2 survive...it's a "cute" story and reads quickly, but don't rush out to buy it. I also read "Einstein's Dreams" by Alan Lightman which is a fictional account of some of the thoughts that Einstein may have had while his theory of special relativity came about. It prompts some really great questions about time. Creative conjuring of something that is a part of every one of your lives isn't time wasted. And on the trek, I wanted to get into the mood/zone so I opened up "The Climb" by Anatoli Boukreev (mtn. guide) and G. Weston Dewalt hoping 2 read it as I went along. It's about the unfortunate, but real events of May 10, 1996 on Everest. It was so interesting I burned thru it b4 we even got started. This is the "other side" of the story that was written about by Jon Krakauer in his insulting account, "Into Thin Air".

**** Then the better of this post's reads is "The God of Small Things" by Arundhati Roy. First, let me say Katie in Chicago...go buy/rent/steal this book; I think it's written 4U2 read NOW! I thought of you many times as I turned the pages; I'm not sure why. Such a poetically written passage about a family that struggles as every family does. It's written in its own unique language that isn't difficult to learn 2 love. 4me, this book would be complimented by a rainy, chilled afternoon in front of a big glass window looking out in2 a forest. It touches deeply and won't be 4gotten by U Katie or anyone else who picks up this prize of pertinent, poignant prose.

Films: I finally got around 2 viewing the film that everyone was ranting about a year or so ago; Crash, directed by Paul Haggis. It won my approval also. Then, I watched one of my faves as a child...Back 2 the Future. What a classic that is...didn't disappoint as I slouched on the sofa of my Kashmiri Kasa. Then, we got around 2 renting 23 by Joel Schumaker...our copy was pirated (go figure) and thus, much of the movie was coughed over; looked pretty good tho'.

Tunes: I got into the second album of The National, Boxer and I know I listed this last post, but it's just so good and echoes my feelings at this moment in my life. The guy's voice is a combo of Nick Cave, Johnny Cash, and Leonard Cohen (I think I read that actually, but it's true)...soul shattering but less morbid. I also tuned back in2 Thom Yorke's solo project, The Eraser. Here's some lingering lyrics...

Falling out of touch with all my friends are somewhere getting wasted. Hope they’re staying glued together, I have alms for them. Take another sip of them, it floats around and takes me over like a little drop of ink in a glass of water.

The National

I'm gonna run 2 the river, kiss my hand and wave. I'm gonna run 2 the river; gonna throw a blue bouquet, cuz they're all gonna be cool happy genius heroes. I'm gonna miss 'em so much.
The National

You traveled far. What have you found? That there's no time, there's no time to analyse, to think things through, to make sense. Like cows in the city, they never looked so pretty. By power carts and blackouts Sleeping like babies.
Thom Yorke

Foto Folder: FINALLY, 4 Ur pleasure--and 2 my amazement--I uploaded well over a 100 pics onto my picasa site. Enjoy some of the views of our Zanskar Trek as well as Kashmir (Srinigar & Sonamarg). Not becuz of lack of effort, the Ladakh folder has few photos...if U haven't already seen them. Yahoo photos closed their site, so I've moved all my yahoo pics 2 Flickr; actually, Yahoo has done it and that means there R probably some mistakes in folders and names...4give and 4get. 4tun8ly, I got all my "private photos" back into "hidden" status...that could've been trouble.

I left Kargil at 23:00 for Kashmir. I recall as time carried me thru the darkness, over the mountains, and into the morning that the moon was full; shining big & brightly 4 the 1st time in I can't remember...my spirits could almost fill that luminescent eye. Then I descended from paradise (as they say) "...it is here, it is here, it is here in Kashmir" and I gazed out the bus window as it climbed thru and down the mountains to Jammu and beyond. W/ hundreds of monkeys lining the sides of the road, I knew I was at the portal to the India I'd left just months b4. Then the beginning became the end; the perfect and enormous, fire-orange disc ablaze, 4 a moment, rested on the ridge and lit the final scene. This...where animal shaped trees parading on pink canvas w/ colourful dreams floating above--the colour of "it's a boy" and "it's a girl" bubblegum cigars meshed into girl gracefully on top/boy bracing on bottom--where animals danced down their verdant stairway and dreams waited 2B pierced just above; the blazing disc bid me farewell and hello in the same falling flame.