~~~~Concise & Curt: Cambodia~~~~

"Seems like it always seems;
where I go, I want to leave."

I ran across Cambodia quicker than I have any other country, bar Singapore (4 day transit visit). Angkor Wat--This place was literally made for the gods and is everything you dream...but 3 days was enuf tackling temples. The book mentioned in Reads below gave a piercing perspective of some of the places around Siem Reap and even Phnom Penh, which I made way for shortly after my session with Khmer ArKitecture. PP is a capital city; it's loud, super-busy, and absolutely no peace is given, except for in your room...and even that was often interrupted by midnight howls and dawn-busting racket.

First day in Siem Reap I saw: loads of children counting 1-10 in English, followed by Spanish, German, French, and some even Russian without stopping for breath or thought. Also saw a boy holding a snake with 1 hand behind his moped, while the other steered, a hundred monks storm one of the temples splashing their brilliant orange colour upon East Baray, and finally--and most impressively--a girl who could give me the capital city of damn near every country I posed for her. The remarkable thing was that she was so quick with her response that I often didn't even get the whole country out before she'd butt in with the appropriate city. "Mongo..."-->>"ULAANBAATAR!!!", she'd belt out. "Latvi..."-->>"Riga!" It was most impressive from SEA to even some of the state capitals of my country.


School's out!!!

I really did want to get out into Cambodia's interior and do some hiking, but I tend to wander off and Cambodia isn't the ideal place to wander or take shortcuts, for it may cut-short more than you'd hoped. Besides, I kinda took the embassy guy's offer of "visa-in-an-hour in exchange for an additional 10US" added to my visa cost as a sign.


Bakong of Ruluos Group

I grabbed the visa and saw a load of other whities picking up their visa-improved passports, knowing that I'd run into most of them along the way...and I have. The next day, I was bound for Tuol Sleng, the Security Prison set up by the Khmers Rouges to exterminate all imperialist traitors...and a whole heap of those who never were. No words for that place, nor the energy, nor what happened. I didn't even want to post my pics, cuz it just doesn't mean shit when it comes down to it; however, there are a few placed in the midst of a pile of Angkor photos. I walked to and from the prison, and by way of back-street alleyways I came into contact with some good Cambodian chaps who all gave me that look of "what the hell RU doing here" even though it was only a couple blocks from a major tourist stop.


From Inside of Tuol Sleng

Can U manage these rules...FOOL???

Quickly made way for Kratie up in North Cambodia, only serving as a break in the long journey and more than anything so I could avoid paying "overtime" fees at the border. Fat lot of good that did, as the 12 of us that crossed were stiffed for a buck each on both sides. When the guard was asked what the fk ANOTHER dollar was being added for, he responded, "service fees". I'm not really sure WHAT is job is if it's not doing what he exactly did for a kickback, but welcome to Indochina. Surely you're all saying, what's a couple bucks ya cheapASS!!?!! But it boils down to a first impression and last taste of these countries; furthermore, if ya can't trust the govt. police force and border patrol, where do you go?

Reads: A book passed onto me by a Slovenian Miha, "The Gate" by Francois Bizot was much better than I had originally thought it would be. First hand account of a Frenchman (Bizot--go figure) who was captured by the Khmers Rouges and thought be a CIA spy for America. Crisp details and incredulous dialouges with some of the most infamous players of the regime. It's a perfect read for someone who wants to know a fraction of what went on in Cambodia 1971-79, without the unreadability of most historical works...recommended.

Film: I saw the great film "Syriana" by Stephen Gaghan again last night and found it amazingly spot on to what's happening and has happened in these years...it was very accurate in prescience and holds onto your attention without the booms of most contemporary flics.

Music: While looking out over the Mekong, I swing in my hammock perched on my bungalow's porch and listen to a great album, first-to-last track; "Born In The USA" by the boss of course. Quite perplexing how "Dancing in the Dark" still seems to hold a bit of truth for me...yeah, even at 28. I wonder how many people think this is a patriotic album and/or title track...it's anything but Sam. What a great album that says so much about cultura americana--definately worth another listen if it's been awhile 4U.

Photo-Pholder: Sorry for jammin' near 100 photos in this Angkor's Album...I know that one shot of a temple looks like all the others, but I tried to throw some people in and give a bit more contrast.

Bakong Portal

Let me NOT 4get: Huge happy feliz cumple for my fine amiga argentina Ximena...espero el mejor para vos querida. Obvio que no puedo traerme un trago...ni mi mismo a la fiestita tuya, aunque, sabes que lo querria TANTO! Seguro que este una partusa con amigos intimos y una re buena onda que me fallara. Igual...que brindes con el vino mas rico, el Fernet mas espumoso, y el Andes mas puro...y que brindes 2 hasta que te encuentre de nuevo--te quiero muchisimo!

Lyringing Lyrics: CYHSY

"When do mouths close and people just gracefully retreat?"

Phili-Phinish...

Turtle Hatchling

Here ya go Joshie...the volcano just couldn't happen, but Mindoro is a great island to see your amphibious accomplice. I dived and saw about 6, only to snorkel right out in front of my bungalow and come into 4 more. An enormous female chomped away on the sea grass and just let me float about her...man she was really going at it and couldn't have cared less about me as I inched closer and closer. Of course I thought about you throughout. This lil' guy is one of many of the hatchlings that they care for and release when ready.

Apo Reef was to be my last diving in the Philippines and possibly last diving for a long time coming. I certainly didn't spare a penny for the experience...and it was worth it all things considered. Day 1 of our overnight live-aboard was crisp clarity 25 meter visability and at just 8 meters descending to our 35m bottom depth we were greeted by a beautiful white-tip reef shark (wtrS), loads of the fearsome dog-toothed tuna, giant trevally, and a beautiful coral garden wall. Of the 6 dives we did over 2 days, not one dive left us with less than 6 sharks, mostly wtrS, though some grey reefs as well and some barracuda of a size that I didn't know existed...ENORMOUS and unwelcoming! A camera would've been great to have as we dived with sleeping sharks on day 2 and were able to get quite close. Also the baby wtrS that was trapped under a table coral that swam damn near into my mask, cheeky bugger.

I was blessed with a super-star crew including 2 dutch ladies (Cara and Loes), an austrian acquaintance (Andi), Julian, Joel (cook), and Endo (guide/dive master). The food was stimulating as was the company and enjoyment of living onboard with the crystal clear turquoise blue water as my front and back yards.

Manila holds my last few days in this beloved country and I won't leave this land with a light heart. This weekend has held just as many surprises and pleasures as the months preceding.

Signs that Sting Smiles:

"Say no to Philippino time, and yes to Philippino on time." (at port)

"Folded and Hung" (dept. store in a mall)

"Wanted: Attractive Waitress" (many windows)

"Jeep/Elf for hire!"

"Sit like a king..." seen here, that was spotted while hungover upon the toilet.


Music: The recent album of Clap Your Hands Say Yeah has echoed in my eardrums for over a month now and I absolutely love it. It appeared that many people weren't fans of the sophomore disc due to distortion on the first track and "over-complication", but I am confounded at the ostensible ignorance. The album Some Loud Thunder, starts with a title track and exhibits an intended distortion that might mimic thunder. It does strike you as a bizarre choice at first, but the track really grows on you and is one of my faves. Furthermore, David Fridman's presence behind the cast of Clap is obvious in the quirky nature of certain tracks, but also evident in the conspicuous completeness of the album. My favorite track has to be, "Mama, Won't You Keep Those Castles In The Air & Burning?" which starts with a symphonic softness and carries on into a lovely lasting lyrical lick towards the end. "Satin Said Dance" is one of those quirkier tunes that is super catchy and spot on in terms of creating a diabolical disco sound. Then the fantastic cohesion stumbled upon the lolling "Yankee Go Home" demands your emulation. Finally, "Underwater (you and me)" is a bit more conservative in sound but just as good with regard to lyrical creativity and superb musical sounds to match the mood. Overall, a GR8 2nd album that I was blessed to find sent to me via email (cheers, B) and on Mark's sneak-peak of a musical selection that constantly keeps me "in da scene"(held high before gulping down brother--hope you get a chance to see them on this second tour). Go here to check out their website, scroll down and you'll find "Underwater (You and Me)" and "Love Song No. 7" for downloading on the right hand side...and don't do it later!

Movies: The Good Shephard, directed by De Niro was a film with great depth in character personality and admirably shows the reality of life and the demanding decisions that are further from black and white than an Atlanta bumper sticker.


Photo Pholders:

Only 31 photos, but somewhat representative of my time in "Apo Reef..." and Malate.


Kanlaon & Negros

this is a compilation from several months back



Leaving Camiguin--Kid's Show


Camiguin Photos:

Yesterday upon recovering from a hangover, I went out just to get a shwarma--best hangover munch ever!--and couldn't help but start walking thru the seedier neighborhoods of Malate, Manila. In every child's dirty face...within the many fat-folds of old men with their shirts above their bellies...buzzing about the fruit stands of all the old ladies...in all this I saw the sadness sweltering in my acceptance that I'll leave this place. Just like all my enjoyed destinations, it's the people that make or break the tolerance/pleasure of the journey; and the Philipines has given me a new found joy for life, people, and the exuberance and vitality in each moment regardless of what you have.

Manila works on "short time"

Daily routine in Malate--fixin' jeepney

Icon of Hotel Sogo

The most striking difference in comparing Pines to the other 6 countries of this trip is that for the first time, I feel like I'm leaving a kind of "home". I've been so comfortable here; I've been able to speak to the people about all sorts of things. I've seen the apparent influences of the Spanish and American occupations and all of it has welcomed me and just clicked with me more than any other. To all the philippinos that helped with this...salamat. However, the source of this premature nostalgia lies somewhere deeper...and a bit more abstract, but the affinity I share with this great archipelago is irrefutable; and thus, doubltess is my return in the near future.

Mabuhay ang Pilipinas!

World Above--World Below...

The last 3 weeks have been so jam packed and full of amazing things that it's impossible to recapitulate it properly. Photos give hints to the sentiments of swimming with the massive Whale Sharks (WS) in Southern Leyte; although, the sheer size of this beast cannot be replicated in font of any size.



Sonok Point; dive site

Julian and I were doing a couple of dives in the area and we wanted to give the lesser known area for the WS ample opportunity to impress...it did. Between dives we surfaced and rested for a bit and hired watchmen to paddle out in their tiny boats and try to spot them. The method was definately 21st century and proved inimitable. One man paddled while the other donning a mask, ducked his head under water. To their defense it worked well.

Head shot Tiki-tiki

We hopped in and it was incredible how close we were able to get--the colours that whipped my eyes--and the enormous stature of the silky swimming shark. One moment we were all right with it and one of the daft danes decided he should descend and get a hands-on experience. Just as he touched it, it gave a quick swat of his massive tail and was out in front of us a good 10 meters. I decided to swim with it a bit longer and for some reason everyone else thought he had swum away. The result was me swimming with this beauteous baby all alone for a solid 10 minutes. To paddle my body within 2 feet of this creature was one thing, but then the calmness of his stroke, the tranquility of his face. He let me swim with him and every once in a while he would curl his head around and take a look at me. Looking in his eyes, at the curiousity that mirrored mine put a smile on my face almost big enough to let the snorkel outta my mouth. I really swam incredulously at the fact that not a single person was near us. Then when I felt he was comfortable with me, I decided I'd like to cop a feel as well. Just as I went to make a move he flinched...so I reached further and finally ran my hand down his smooth yet impenetrable skin. Just at that point he tail-whipped me. That hurt like hell not to mention the water I swallowed as a result of being thrown under water. Rock solid and definately a warning...he fled to deeper waters. And still the whole thing came to pass so calmly.



Andy in front, Julian atop and my arm behind

We hopped back in the boat and tried for another spot and were successful with a much larger mother...6+meters to be exact--that's over 20 feet--gliding along the bottom of the seafloor. I jumped out to meet his line of direction and as he approached found myself in awe as he swam in ascension str8 towards me with his mouth wide open; suspended w/out a scare, rather stupefied and totally deer in the headlights. Of course he didn't eat me cuz I'm writing this...more directly, he didn't eat me because I wasn't plankton.

An Approach

At the end of the day, there's no way I can describe the energy of being with something so much larger than ourselves in such an intimate setting.

Me just 4 ft. behind dorsal fin of the larger one...dwarfed!

Shortly after that we headed up to Bicol where the world's most perfect volcano, Mt. Mayon can be viewed, though not summited. Just 4 months ago the super typhoon Reming (durian) caused massive mudslides off the volcano and onto the settlements below. It's not clear how many died--and in fact they still find bodies under the mud now and again--but the true catastrophe was the tens of thousands that were left homeless in such a storm that was relentless; left only to cross up and over mountains to get some sort of shelter.

Note the Mudslide to the right

Mt. Mayon w/ Mudslide down middle

B/W Mt. Mayon w/ Legaspi City

Just seeing the beauty of this volcano and the perfect inclination to the chiseled dome made me want to climb it badly. Instead I would go off to another volcano and end up not summiting that either. However, failure is not a description that is warranted for this region...anything but.

A few more photos of WS, diving & Mayon here.

Release...

6 years ago in the picture postcard island of Cabo Polonia I rented a cabin with an Englishmen, Welshman, and a Norwegian. We tweaked a week into a paradise of vice. Somewhere in between I purchased a hemp necklace from a brazilian hobo roamin' thru Uruguay; it soon was guarded as another limb of mine and is seen in pretty much every photo I took of me from that moment till...


Cabo Polonia Beach 2004

Another picture-perfect postcard island, Mantigue off of Camiguin with another Englishman and an American (south georgia): after a good hour snorkeling in cold water, I swim to shore, slab some PB&J on terrible sweet bread, and I feel the grip finally give way--the extremity exterminated, the branch busted, the limb lacerated; the bond broken...6 years L8r...my mouth dropping and releasing the bite of bread, the jam from my jowls.

Mantigue Island

3 Brother's Boat n' Me

I knew I'd spend a considerable amount of time on the island of Camiguin, but the 15 days I ended up there injected me with a tranquility and contentedness I haven't had in a great many days. Jasmine by the Sea was the perfect retreat; my sanctuary from all troublesome thought, from reality's rapacious rampage...I was suspended in solace.

Melinda Day-Nappin'

How every day ends at Jasmine's:
kids kickin' kurrent-- the
sun dripping gold upon a drawing tide

That's not to say I sat on my ass for the better part of a month, rather the itinerary was most satiating: a cross-island hike followed by a nice soaking in cold-springs, hiking thru a pathless ravine that lead me up to a ridge that would leave me 300 meters from the islands highest mountain with absolutely no way to bush-bash anymore, the ascent of Hibok-Hibok volcano--my 2 conspirators and I--in a blinding mist that was NOT picture perfect, a circumferential cycle around the island measuring 40+miles that impressed my bum more than I cared for, snorkeling previously mentioned, and a whopping 3 books buried in my memory with the soil of copious coffees consumed--life loved me lavishly and thoroughly.

Hibok-Hibok Volcano; the day we DIDN'T climb it

Summit of Hibok-Hibok; clear as canola

This pose didn't hold long at all

With a combo of ferries--of which the local kids gave us spectacular sendoff by doing flips off the top of our ferry fearlessly--and buses, we left the reputed problematic province of Mindanao for Leyte where we were stunned by a beautiful beast that will have to be accounted for later. Making hastely northward, we passed the island of Samar in a day and arrived back on the main island of Luzon, albeit in the southeastern region of Bicol, where the food is notoriously spicy--cooked in cocount soaked chilis--which was cohesive with the fire below the earth...the world's most perfect volcano, Mt. Mayon. This story and vista must also wait.

--->Reads: Avariciously flippin' pages, I came across my now favorite author, Salmon Rushdie. Many of you may know is most famous work, "Satanic Verses", but I read a fascinating novel about Kashmir and it's people set in LA and India/Pakistan both; "Shalimar the Clown". This left me speechlessly in awe of his ability to tell a story, but none-the-less, I picked up the classic and already read, "Catcher in the Rye" by JD Salinger and was reminded how dark and sad it can be as a lonely kid in the world. I needed some much lighter, funnier material so what more did I do than pick up a Canadian author Will Fergison and his satircal "Happiness" that pokes fun of the self-help book industry. The main theme here is what if someone wrote a book that actually worked...solving everyone's problems...it made me laugh out loud several times and was the perfect transition from the heavy pages that had crossed my eyes the months before.

--->Flics: Loads actually...only because I've been traveling with the odd couple Andy (English) and Julian (Valdosta, GA) which allowed us all a bit more luxury with less cost...one of my favorite findings. The most notable and liked was the relevant "An Inconenient Truth" by Al Gore which just won 2007's Academy Award for Documentary Feature (which I'm sure you all more aware than I was). The other films escape me at this delayed post ending.

I leave you all in great anticipation for the next post--surely you'll see it before you see this post due to your busy, hectic, ever-moving lives that preclude extra time for pleasure reading while at work...yeah right!